C Melody Saxophone Forum

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C Melody Saxophone Forum / Repairs and Refurbishing / Cleaning Solution!?

Back 20 Messages

Steve
User ID: 1069864 Sep 25th 10:45 PM
I've just recieved my new C sax carcass to refurbish.
It's black!
Looks like it's been painted because there is so much tarnish on it!
The pads are all shot, those that are still there!
I thought I could save hours of work by dropping it in a bath of something to remove the tarnish???

I tried vinegar. Doesn't work!

Is there some kind of weak acid (readily available) that would take off the oxide and not the silver?

Any ideas appreciated!

Jim B
User ID: 9781133 Oct 20th 10:48 AM
I use cheap Chrome polish used for cars. I apply it with a Q tip and let it sit. In removing the stuff I DO NOT RUB. The stuff is abrasive but it does eat off the corrosion.

DeanoTheSaxman (UK)
User ID: 9711993 Oct 20th 3:53 PM
A similar technique to the one I currently use, I've found a combination of Silvo & Brasso to be very usefull

steve
User ID: 1069864 Oct 20th 10:41 PM
The Amway metal polish is also abrasive but it has a chemical action which surprised me with it's speed.
It's just getting around the posts and keys!
I've been afraid to dismember the sax but since the springs are largly useless and the pads are gone, I guess I have nothing to lose! (except the screws)

DeanoTheSaxman (UK)
User ID: 9711993 Oct 21st 3:35 AM
Exactly Jim, just remember the sequence that the keys come off, as the reverse sequence is used to assemble, usually a good rule of thumb is that the lower positions on the posts are assembled first I.E. the screw holes closest to the sax body, are always assemled first, but that's only a rough rule as you will find when you get to octave levers & mechanisms, sometimes it contradicts it's self, but this is only a general rule that I have found out through trial & error.

Lewis Pelham.
User ID: 9865253 Oct 21st 4:33 AM
Another point (sorry) about the springs when cleaning the horn, is to look out for springs which oppose; ie; face each other. On many occasions I have stabbed myself, instinctly & rapidly pulled my finger away only to impale the other side of the same finger on an opposing spring...those designers were fiendish!

DeanoTheSaxman (UK)
User ID: 9711993 Oct 21st 5:11 AM
I know exactly that situation, took weeks for my finger to stop hurting, not much fun when you've still got to go out and play as well!

Alan (UK)
User ID: 8200143 Oct 21st 5:26 AM
Good job I've got small fingers and 'girlie hands' then... I was told that, rather disparagingly, when I tried to learn piano at an early age - not enough stretch.

Great ! Otherwise by now I'd just be a boring keyboard player...

P.S. you need to drink a lot of scrumpy, preferably AFTER cleaning, feel no pain and avoid infection.

Lewis Pelham.
User ID: 9865253 Oct 21st 6:29 AM
Scrumpy would probably clean the sax also, as it has the ability to disolve brains......mere silver oxide should be well within it's capabilities.

jazzbug1
User ID: 1836024 Dec 14th 2:56 PM
I have cleaned many silver and a few gold saxophones with LOW abrasive polish mixed with anti-tarnish polish. I never stick myself on springs by using an electric toothbrush. It works very well.Use a large bottle brush with polish on the inside of the horn, being sure to clean tone holes. To remove the dried polish residue, give the horn or parts a water bath, using a manual toothbrush. ONLY use very soft bristles on any brush, as a stiff bristle can mar the silver.Get rid of what you can with water. When done, wipe down with a towel, being sure to wipe the inside also.
Dry thoroughly (an oven helps). Use a DRY toothbrush to remove the dry traces of polish from the posts, etc. If you dry the horn quickly,the springs will not rust. Fast dry is essential to not rusting springs(an air gun is ideal). Anti tarnish polish creates an invisible layer of silver oxide, which prevents sulfur in the air (pollution)from combining with the silver (that ugly tarnish). Sometimes we colonists have good ideas. Good luck, honkers!

CaptainMuggles
User ID: 9725373 Dec 14th 8:21 PM
Jazzbug1....Very unusual, but it seems like it will work!

Steve
User ID: 8792653 Dec 15th 12:17 AM
Ok I bought some Goddards silver dip and it takes it back to silver without any trouble.
Of course you need Q tips to apply between rods etc.
I also tried Goddards silver foam. Got a nasty surprise when it arrived in the mail. A plastic jar of horrible brown sludge.
However the instructions say to use a wet applicator. I used a sponge and what a pleasant surprise!
Takes trarnish off in seconds without hard rubbing.
Entirely chemical reaction! My new Holton now looks NEW!

Back 20 Messages

Steve User ID: 1069864	Sep 25th 10:45 PM I've just recieved my new C sax carcass to refurbish. It's black! Looks like it's been painted because there is so much tarnish on it! The pads are all shot, those that are still there! I thought I could save hours of work by dropping it in a bath of something to remove the tarnish??? I tried vinegar. Doesn't work! Is there some kind of weak acid (readily available) that would take off the oxide and not the silver? Any ideas appreciated!
Jim B User ID: 9781133	Oct 20th 10:48 AM I use cheap Chrome polish used for cars. I apply it with a Q tip and let it sit. In removing the stuff I DO NOT RUB. The stuff is abrasive but it does eat off the corrosion.
DeanoTheSaxman (UK) User ID: 9711993	Oct 20th 3:53 PM A similar technique to the one I currently use, I've found a combination of Silvo & Brasso to be very usefull
steve User ID: 1069864	Oct 20th 10:41 PM The Amway metal polish is also abrasive but it has a chemical action which surprised me with it's speed. It's just getting around the posts and keys! I've been afraid to dismember the sax but since the springs are largly useless and the pads are gone, I guess I have nothing to lose! (except the screws)
DeanoTheSaxman (UK) User ID: 9711993	Oct 21st 3:35 AM Exactly Jim, just remember the sequence that the keys come off, as the reverse sequence is used to assemble, usually a good rule of thumb is that the lower positions on the posts are assembled first I.E. the screw holes closest to the sax body, are always assemled first, but that's only a rough rule as you will find when you get to octave levers & mechanisms, sometimes it contradicts it's self, but this is only a general rule that I have found out through trial & error.
Lewis Pelham. User ID: 9865253	Oct 21st 4:33 AM Another point (sorry) about the springs when cleaning the horn, is to look out for springs which oppose; ie; face each other. On many occasions I have stabbed myself, instinctly & rapidly pulled my finger away only to impale the other side of the same finger on an opposing spring...those designers were fiendish!
DeanoTheSaxman (UK) User ID: 9711993	Oct 21st 5:11 AM I know exactly that situation, took weeks for my finger to stop hurting, not much fun when you've still got to go out and play as well!
Alan (UK) User ID: 8200143	Oct 21st 5:26 AM Good job I've got small fingers and 'girlie hands' then... I was told that, rather disparagingly, when I tried to learn piano at an early age - not enough stretch. Great ! Otherwise by now I'd just be a boring keyboard player... P.S. you need to drink a lot of scrumpy, preferably AFTER cleaning, feel no pain and avoid infection.
Lewis Pelham. User ID: 9865253	Oct 21st 6:29 AM Scrumpy would probably clean the sax also, as it has the ability to disolve brains......mere silver oxide should be well within it's capabilities.
jazzbug1 User ID: 1836024	Dec 14th 2:56 PM I have cleaned many silver and a few gold saxophones with LOW abrasive polish mixed with anti-tarnish polish. I never stick myself on springs by using an electric toothbrush. It works very well.Use a large bottle brush with polish on the inside of the horn, being sure to clean tone holes. To remove the dried polish residue, give the horn or parts a water bath, using a manual toothbrush. ONLY use very soft bristles on any brush, as a stiff bristle can mar the silver.Get rid of what you can with water. When done, wipe down with a towel, being sure to wipe the inside also. Dry thoroughly (an oven helps). Use a DRY toothbrush to remove the dry traces of polish from the posts, etc. If you dry the horn quickly,the springs will not rust. Fast dry is essential to not rusting springs(an air gun is ideal). Anti tarnish polish creates an invisible layer of silver oxide, which prevents sulfur in the air (pollution)from combining with the silver (that ugly tarnish). Sometimes we colonists have good ideas. Good luck, honkers!
CaptainMuggles User ID: 9725373	Dec 14th 8:21 PM Jazzbug1....Very unusual, but it seems like it will work!
Steve User ID: 8792653	Dec 15th 12:17 AM Ok I bought some Goddards silver dip and it takes it back to silver without any trouble. Of course you need Q tips to apply between rods etc. I also tried Goddards silver foam. Got a nasty surprise when it arrived in the mail. A plastic jar of horrible brown sludge. However the instructions say to use a wet applicator. I used a sponge and what a pleasant surprise! Takes trarnish off in seconds without hard rubbing. Entirely chemical reaction! My new Holton now looks NEW!